Apr 15 2016
Manchester – Where It’s At?
“There’s a destination a little up the road
From the habitations and the towns we know
A place we saw the lights turn low
The jig-saw jazz and the get-fresh flow
Pulling out jives and jamboree handouts
Two turntables and a microphone
Bottles and cans just clap your hands
Just clap your hands
Where it’s at!
I got two turntables and a microphone…. “
(“Where It’s At” – Beck : YouTube Clip – GrandMa Bird)
On Friday evening, I returned home from a day at New Mills Beer Festival (bijou – as in small – to say the least) via Manchester. No plan to have a beer in “Town” at the start of the day, but plans, as you well know, have a habit of being…… shall we say…. dynamic?
Anyway. Having deposited a bottle of the most excellent “American Barleywine” by Torrside with the Arch Nemesis, I hobbled towards the Crown & Kettle.
The objective? Cotopaxi DIPA by Track. On cask.
A rare thing to see a DIPA on cask. I was lucky to try the first DIPA brewed by Cloudwater on cask on its launch day last year and (at the time) enjoyed it marginally more than the keg and bottle. A marvelous beer in the truest sense in that I wondered at the flavour and texture being far lighter (and almost “sessionable”) than a 9% beer had any right to be.
The Track was big and juicy. Chewy malt and huge hopping giving a real balance. In an age where balance is deemed unfashionable. It amazes me how brewers make such beers so eminently drinkable.
Then we went to The Smithfield. Where it was on keg.
WOW. What a difference! The carbonation and – dare I say it – the temperature, made a HUGE difference. The beer was lifted and lightened. The hops soared over the malty landscape and simply stunned me.
From a vaguely remembered conversation with Sam (Mr Track), I seem to recall that he preferred it on cask in some ways . I have to disagree (Memory, O fickle thing!). He prefers it on keg. And I never thought I would agree with those who say that certain styles suit Keg. This beer danced. And got me thinking….
Is this city where it’s at, beer wise?
Cask Beer – Is there a better session pale ale than Sonoma by Track? I haven’t had a better pale ale in cask in the last 12 months. Juicy, punchy and smooth. Just an absolute go to. For someone who doesn’t normally have such beers.
Manchester is choc full of great breweries banging out superb cask conditioned beers. Nowhere better. Let’s be hearing those arguments, down below.
“Craft” Keg – Unless you’ve been in hibernation for the last 7 days, you won’t have missed the reams of web inches splaffed on Cloudwater’s DIPA v3, if it’s a patch on v1 it will be a classic. They’ve been slipping out some simply stunning lagers too, vastly underrated when compared to the DIPA and IPA.
Marble seem to be under the radar of late. But with James Kemp keen to put a stamp on the brewery, they’ve put out two crackers with Damage Plan & Built to Fall. For me, still THE brewery in Manchester all round.
However, the beer that has made my taste buds sing more than any other on keg is from Runaway. Their Pale. I’ve had it a few times in the last fortnight and it is absolutely WAILING! So fresh, light and just zipping out of that glass. Simply stunning. (The American Brown is a bit special too)
And if somebody wants to put London up? Other than Weird Beard, I’m not convinced by the hype around many London breweries. I’m just not. That isn’t parochialism. Just my taste buds talking to me.
Manchester also has an absolutely BANGING set of brewtaps that are coming into their own at this time of year too. Black Jack / Runaway (On tomorrow!) / Squawk–Track all pack out their arches with stunning beers and great food (none too shabby tunes either….) and with people like Beer Nouveau regularly opening their doors too, there’s something for everyone!
The drinking area where I struggle to justify the primacy of my beloved city is……. Pubs. It has so MANY cracking bars that you’d struggle to keep up, but….
Manchester has a thriving beer scene – Christ KNOWS I’ve been waffling on about it for long enough. This scene will be placed front and centre in June when Connor Murphy rolls out the fullness of Manchester Beer Week. Something to which I’m looking forward to hugely – I may even be…….. Ah. That’s for another time
Where this city falls – slightly – short, is in a concentration of classic freehouses. It has great pubs. But many of these are hobbled by pubco ownership which restricts the beer supply to – for me – the larger regional breweries and the huge firms like Marstons (eg Bulls Head) & Greene King (Lass O’Gowrie).
Go to places like Sheffield, Huddersfield & Liverpool though and they appear to be over endowed with classic pubs that also dispense great local beers. I was awe-struck and incredibly jealous when I strolled around both H Town & Sheff last year and wandered around in an impressed daze when we went to Liverpool recently.
Yes. We have The Marble Arch, The Crown & Kettle, but little else in the way of truly great beautiful pubs, with truly great beer. Too many pubs hobbled by pubco control – that’s a whole other argument though.
Manchester is a city where bars shine. Port Street, Pie & Ale, (Marble’s own) 57 Thomas Street, Soup Kitchen, Font, Sandbar…..the list goes on.
On balance – in the North, for sure – Manchester has “it”. For me in any case.
That’s enough inflation of that “Manchester Bubble” from me – for now. Next stop, Hebden Bridge!
Back soon.
Aug 25 2016
GRUB & Runaway – Food and Beer. Matched.
I’ve been struggling to write recently. I needed something that matters to me, that I care about to get me jump started. And then I noticed what was happening on Saturday.
In the last 3 years or so, Manchester has been blessed with great beer. I’ve written about that side of things to the point where even I yawn. But in those 3 years, I have been privileged to witness – along with some old friends – some fabulous events held in (what I would regard as) the real Northern Quarter. Part of the original N/4. Events that pull together great local beers, great tunes and – most importantly – fabulous food.
And at the heart of this are Bailey & Jules. Better known as the people behind GRUB.
Starting at Black Jack and more latterly Runaway Brewery, they have created a “feel good vibe” that it has been a pleasure to be around. Relaxed, civilised and undeniably Mancunian. With a street food contact book to kill for, excellent beer connections and an instinct for what feels right, they have put on events that have become quintessentially Manc.
Just a little like a Manchester summer (that thing we rarely get), no matter the weather, when the canvas goes up in either Runaway or Sadlers Yard, I know what I’m going to get, great beer, great food and a smile on my face.
This weekend is no exception.
Runaway just make some of the best keg beers in the country. No palaver, no hype, Mark, Darren and the crew just get on with making great beer – I’m a HUGE fan of the Pale & American Brown to name but two! And the newly married Bailey & Jules have brought together some simply stunning food traders to have with them. There might even be a Keg of the Hawkshead Mass Collab Session IPA knocking about.
(left – then clockwise – Scoop Up, Oh Mei Dumpling, What The Truck)
Food from three exciting (and no doubt nervous) new traders in Scoop Up (Ice Cream – pray for the Sun Gods!); Oh Mei Dumpling (need a clue?) and the fabulously named “What The Truck” (Tacos, Bahn Mi and much more….) as well as the most excellent Mac Daddies & Hip Hop Chip Shop.
(Mac Daddies & Hip Hop Chip Shop)
What Bailey & Jules have done is put their heart and soul into something that they truly love – great food – and adding a certain Mancunian soul, it’s the only way that I can describe it. They make it look effortless. And I – for one – know the hard work that this takes.
With great food and beer like this (as well as some seriously laid back tuneage), let’s be proper Mancunians eh?
Let’s pretend it’s summer!
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