Apr 15 2016
Manchester – Where It’s At?
“There’s a destination a little up the road
From the habitations and the towns we know
A place we saw the lights turn low
The jig-saw jazz and the get-fresh flow
Pulling out jives and jamboree handouts
Two turntables and a microphone
Bottles and cans just clap your hands
Just clap your hands
Where it’s at!
I got two turntables and a microphone…. “
(“Where It’s At” – Beck : YouTube Clip – GrandMa Bird)
On Friday evening, I returned home from a day at New Mills Beer Festival (bijou – as in small – to say the least) via Manchester. No plan to have a beer in “Town” at the start of the day, but plans, as you well know, have a habit of being…… shall we say…. dynamic?
Anyway. Having deposited a bottle of the most excellent “American Barleywine” by Torrside with the Arch Nemesis, I hobbled towards the Crown & Kettle.
The objective? Cotopaxi DIPA by Track. On cask.
A rare thing to see a DIPA on cask. I was lucky to try the first DIPA brewed by Cloudwater on cask on its launch day last year and (at the time) enjoyed it marginally more than the keg and bottle. A marvelous beer in the truest sense in that I wondered at the flavour and texture being far lighter (and almost “sessionable”) than a 9% beer had any right to be.
The Track was big and juicy. Chewy malt and huge hopping giving a real balance. In an age where balance is deemed unfashionable. It amazes me how brewers make such beers so eminently drinkable.
Then we went to The Smithfield. Where it was on keg.
WOW. What a difference! The carbonation and – dare I say it – the temperature, made a HUGE difference. The beer was lifted and lightened. The hops soared over the malty landscape and simply stunned me.
From a vaguely remembered conversation with Sam (Mr Track), I seem to recall that he preferred it on cask in some ways . I have to disagree (Memory, O fickle thing!). He prefers it on keg. And I never thought I would agree with those who say that certain styles suit Keg. This beer danced. And got me thinking….
Is this city where it’s at, beer wise?
Cask Beer – Is there a better session pale ale than Sonoma by Track? I haven’t had a better pale ale in cask in the last 12 months. Juicy, punchy and smooth. Just an absolute go to. For someone who doesn’t normally have such beers.
Manchester is choc full of great breweries banging out superb cask conditioned beers. Nowhere better. Let’s be hearing those arguments, down below.
“Craft” Keg – Unless you’ve been in hibernation for the last 7 days, you won’t have missed the reams of web inches splaffed on Cloudwater’s DIPA v3, if it’s a patch on v1 it will be a classic. They’ve been slipping out some simply stunning lagers too, vastly underrated when compared to the DIPA and IPA.
Marble seem to be under the radar of late. But with James Kemp keen to put a stamp on the brewery, they’ve put out two crackers with Damage Plan & Built to Fall. For me, still THE brewery in Manchester all round.
However, the beer that has made my taste buds sing more than any other on keg is from Runaway. Their Pale. I’ve had it a few times in the last fortnight and it is absolutely WAILING! So fresh, light and just zipping out of that glass. Simply stunning. (The American Brown is a bit special too)
And if somebody wants to put London up? Other than Weird Beard, I’m not convinced by the hype around many London breweries. I’m just not. That isn’t parochialism. Just my taste buds talking to me.
Manchester also has an absolutely BANGING set of brewtaps that are coming into their own at this time of year too. Black Jack / Runaway (On tomorrow!) / Squawk–Track all pack out their arches with stunning beers and great food (none too shabby tunes either….) and with people like Beer Nouveau regularly opening their doors too, there’s something for everyone!
The drinking area where I struggle to justify the primacy of my beloved city is……. Pubs. It has so MANY cracking bars that you’d struggle to keep up, but….
Manchester has a thriving beer scene – Christ KNOWS I’ve been waffling on about it for long enough. This scene will be placed front and centre in June when Connor Murphy rolls out the fullness of Manchester Beer Week. Something to which I’m looking forward to hugely – I may even be…….. Ah. That’s for another time
Where this city falls – slightly – short, is in a concentration of classic freehouses. It has great pubs. But many of these are hobbled by pubco ownership which restricts the beer supply to – for me – the larger regional breweries and the huge firms like Marstons (eg Bulls Head) & Greene King (Lass O’Gowrie).
Go to places like Sheffield, Huddersfield & Liverpool though and they appear to be over endowed with classic pubs that also dispense great local beers. I was awe-struck and incredibly jealous when I strolled around both H Town & Sheff last year and wandered around in an impressed daze when we went to Liverpool recently.
Yes. We have The Marble Arch, The Crown & Kettle, but little else in the way of truly great beautiful pubs, with truly great beer. Too many pubs hobbled by pubco control – that’s a whole other argument though.
Manchester is a city where bars shine. Port Street, Pie & Ale, (Marble’s own) 57 Thomas Street, Soup Kitchen, Font, Sandbar…..the list goes on.
On balance – in the North, for sure – Manchester has “it”. For me in any case.
That’s enough inflation of that “Manchester Bubble” from me – for now. Next stop, Hebden Bridge!
Back soon.
Apr 22 2016
The Beerage (or From Rags To Riches?)
“I leave the home of a lifetime, like any son. I have hope and good intentions. And wandering into the daybreak, I learn as I go. To fall laughing into the water….”
(“From Rage To Riches” – The Blue Nile : clip “Andy McKenzie” on YouTube)
What are you willing to pay for your pint? For your Schooner? Your bottle or can?
This shit is important. Especially in an age where the choice has never been so great. What I’m about to say, may be counter-intuitive to those with “market” sensibilities, but I’m going to say it. Because I truly believe it.
Beer is too cheap.
Given that I’ve not been struck down by an emissary from Bacchus, I’ll say it again. Yes, I believe that……
Beer is too cheap.
Why do I think that? Ask almost any micro brewer.
It kind of hit home when I phoned a brewer early last year to arrange the return of a cask from #ISBF2015. At the end of the chat, he told me that he wanted me to hear it from him, rather than from the grapevine. He was selling the brewery. Not because he was losing money, or owed a mountain of debt. Far from it. He was solvent. He also loved what he did, which was make great beers with passion.
But love wasn’t enough. There was a family. And bills to pay. And the old job that had been left behind paid far, far more.
3 or so years ago, price was all to me. I’d go out into Manchester with £20, CAMRA Wetherspoon vouchers in my pocket and go home with plenty of change from 5 or 6 pints. And that includes the £4 bus fare.
Now? The CAMRA vouchers are in the bin.
I have nothing against ‘Spoons per se (2020 Correction…actually, yes I do. Lots). But you have to ask yourself, how do supermarkets keep their prices cheap? And Wetherspoons IS like a draught beer supermarket. They keep their costs down. And, other than their “Zero Hours” contracted staff, what is their biggest outlay? Yup. Beer. And regularly, they want the beer so cheap from the suppliers that often, there is no profit (or very little) for the brewery.
And when you are working near regular 80 hour weeks for precious little reward……Why would you sell to ‘Spoons? Why would you want to get into brewing at all?
I’ve been asked a number of times, “Do you fancy getting into brewing yourself?” The answer remains the same. I have bills to pay and – as little as I do “earn” – I couldn’t afford the pay cut, as I remember a figure from a few years ago about the average Micro Brewer earning £20k.
£20k for 80 hour weeks? Sod that!
In an era where there are over 70 breweries in the greater Manchester area – and more opening monthly (check here for the current picture) it seems – these people need to make money. For every Cloudwater and Vocation – with substantial backing, there are a number of breweries that take out substantial loans to realise their dream. And those don’t pay for themselves.
There are a number of ways that a brewery can increase their income (presuming that they can sell all that they make – of course)
The first two of those involve significant additional expense and are simply not feasible for all.
Several local Manchester breweries regularly open their doors, from Wilson Potter in Middleton (for a couple of years now), through Black Jack, Beer Nouveau, Track/Squawk and do fairly well doing it. But it doesn’t solve everything. So we’re back at my original point.
The price of the beer in your glass.
“Good people drink good beer.” as Hunter S Thompson said. And good beer costs good money to make.
I like big Stouts (and I cannot lie…..), I like US/Aus/NZ hopped Pale Ales and IPAs. The hops in these beers don’t come cheap, when you can get them. The more of these hoppy flavours that you want in that beer, the more expensive it is to produce.
Yes. If you want to, you can drink Sam Smiths Old Brewery Bitter at £1.80 or so a pint. If that’s your bag, fill your boots. I truly can’t stand the stuff. Never could.
As stated above, we have a phenomenal choice of brewers and beers in the Greater Manchester area (even if too many never see the bars of the city centre), but unless they can make enough money to make this worthwhile, this number must surely soon start to decline. Whilst I admire the optimism and financial bravery of the clutch of new breweries that have recently opened (and those that are soon to do so), I fear for their bank accounts.
Some will argue that the odd penny off beer duty will help. It won’t. It’s pissing in the wind.
We all enjoy choice on a bar. Many enjoy a full flavoured hoppy citrus or roasty pint. We love the fact that we have so many breweries to choose from.
It’s quite simple really (to this simpleton anyway). Breweries sell beer to pubs and bars. The brewery needs to make enough money to pay its bills and employees. The pubs need to make enough money to pay theirs also.
In summary, if this “Golden Age” is to continue, maybe we need to pay more for the beer, so that those who make it can make an actual living from their efforts.
Give me YOUR price suggestions below.
I’m off to the bomb shelter.
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